It's Delirious
West Street Grill Never Fails

Cole Porter’s famous lyrics—It’s delightful, it’s delicious, it’s delectable—might well have been written to describe the West Street Grill. Now in its 18^th year, The Grill (as locals refer to it) has become the standard by which all other ambitious, local chefs and restaurateurs measure themselves and has moved into the status of a timeless classic, like Porter’s song.

And, like the song, dining at The Grill evokes each season and in an undeniable way. For example, in the early summer months the restaurant is the first to serve locally grown heirloom tomatoes (grown especially for them and even tented during cold evenings), and we can think of nothing better. Served on a plate sprinkled with fleur de sel, drizzled with the best virgin olive oil, topped with a twig of newly grown basil leaves, and accompanied by a thick slice of homemade peasant bread, what could be simpler or more exquisite?

Hands-on co-owners James O’Shea and Charles Kafferman love what they do and it shows. From fine service to glimmering tabletop accessories, combined with the strong, simple look of a bistro, this restaurant has soul. Part of the reason for its current success is chef James Cosgriff, O’Shea’s skillful and talented protégé of five years. Now just 23, Cosgriff has learned well at O’Shea’s stove, and their culinary marriage has kept the fire in The Grill’s cuisine. Several dishes reflect O’Shea’s Irish background, but his love of Asian and international food is also apparent in the eclectic menu produced by this versatile duo. Cosgriff is totally at home whether skillfully sautéing a filet of salmon, creating a luscious garlic, basil, and parmesan–infused pasta sauce, or gently deep-frying their shrimp tempura specialty.

Clubby and casual, this is the place to be on a Friday night, year-round, where locals and very private celebrities gather in the booths and on the banquettes of this warmly lit space. 

—Maxime DeWitt

West Street Grill, 43 West St., Litchfield, (860) 567-3885